Gardening
Topic for January 2008
Amaryllis
Provided by the Western
Massachusetts Master Gardener Association
www.wmassmastergardeners.org.
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By Lyssa Peters, Master Gardener |
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Last December I suggested that everyone I know buy an Amaryllis bulb (Hippeastrum)
for themselves this holiday season, promising to tell them all how to make it
bloom again. But first I must make a confession: I have never actually
accomplished that feat myself. I have grown some spectacular Amaryllis foliage,
but have never gotten one to repeat bloom.
This year, armed with information from several sources, I was ready to try
again.
Taking my own good advice I bought three bulbs, one for my mother-in-law, one
for my daughter, and one for myself. My daughter left hers in her car on one of
those very cold nights we had in December. She learned an important lesson. Do
not leave your Amaryllis bulb out in freezing temps - it will not bloom this
year; or ever!
My mother-in-law potted hers up right away and followed the directions on the
package. She watered it lightly until it started to show growth, then she
watered it well. In her toasty apartment (the average temperature is between
75-85°) the flowering stalk shot up like a rocket and gave her 4 incredible pink
and white flowers, then another set of 4 blossoms opened up as well. In the warm
sunny apartment the whole show was over in a couple of weeks, but what fun!
I had put mine (still in the package) into the garage. Then I went on to other
things. When I discovered it several weeks later, the bulb had already started
to grow, and the stem was very crooked as it tried to grow upright in its box. I
potted it up, watered it lightly and put it in a sunny window in a cool room,
turning it every couple of days to straighten out the stem. All was going well.
The flower stem was maybe 9 inches tall and a lovely bud starting to open when
fate (in the form of a young male cat) intervened, and knocked over the pot. The
stem bent and cracked open in two places. I considered bandaging the wound and
supporting the stem with a stick, but had to admit it would probably never
bloom. So, I cut off the stem and put it in a vase of water deep enough to cover
the wound. Despite our naughty kitty, my Amaryllis bloomed beautifully in the
vase on my kitchen counter. I had at least 6 lily shaped flowers, which opened
in succession and lasted until after Christmas.
How DO we get our bulbs to bloom again? Most sources advise us to cut off the
flower after bloom fades, but not the stalk. Place in sunny window and water
when soil feels dry. Feed regularly. It is important to keep the foliage growing
vigorously since it produces the food for next year’s blossoms. After danger of
frost has passed (mid-May to Memorial Day in our area) you can put your
Amaryllis outside for the summer. Morning sun and afternoon partial shade is
ideal. Check the pot each day to see if water is needed, and feed regularly with
water-soluble fertilizer.
Before the first autumn frost, bring your plant back inside. By this time the
foliage may be completely yellowed. If not, place on a sunny windowsill indoors.
When foliage is yellow, you know the bulb is ready to “rest.” Cut off foliage
and stalk, withhold water, allowing the soil to dry completely, then store in a
cool dry area (40 to 45° F) and do not water for 4 months.
When you want the bulb to flower again, scrape off the top layer of soil and
replace with fresh soil, water thoroughly, then wait for growth to start before
watering well again.
Note: Amaryllis do not like to have their roots disturbed, and prefer to be pot
bound. Always plant in a pot that is no more than 1-1/2 to 2 inches larger in
diameter that the bulb, and do not repot for several years.
I found some good instructions on growing Amaryllis at
www.rochestergardening.com. Click on Bulbs.
Good luck! Happy New Year!
For other articles, check out our archives
Provided by the Western
Massachusetts Master Gardener Association
www.wmassmastergardeners.org